A culinary diamond on the rough

On Nov 6, 2023

Manville mayor Richard Onderko remembers when borough landmark Manville Pizza opened more than a half-century ago. Slices were 25 cents and with two train stations, a nearby airport and several factories in town, Manville was the perfect, prosperous place to open shop.

Today, slices are no longer 25 cents and Manville is no longer the epicenter of Somerset County commerce. Its reputation has been washed away by devastating floods like Hurricane Ida in 2021, Hurricane Irene in 2011 and Hurricane Floyd 1999. During Hurricane Ida alone, 80 of Manville’s businesses went underwater, and some did not reopen. Its restaurant and shopping scene had become overshadowed by thriving neighbors like Somerville.

But it shouldn’t be – and to locals in-the-know, it isn’t.

“The Manville food scene is completely underrated and I think it suffers from a stigma,” said Manville Pizza owner Anthony D’Aniello, whose late father Vincenzo founded the business. “Manville has a lot going against it but once you try it, it will make a believer out of you. All it takes is one try and you will be hooked. And it’s only the beginning.”

Manville’s culinary scene reflects the diversity of its community, said Onderko, which includes Polish deli The Polish Pickle; family-owned Mexican eatery O’rale Mexican Restaurant; upscale Mediterranean restaurant Sahara; funky barbecue spot Grub Hut; and authentic Peruvian place Norkys Peruvian Restaurant – to name a few.

There’s also longtime staples like Manville Pizza, which makes its dough fresh everyday and imports its tomatoes from Italy; and the classic, cozy Manville Diner. Plus, new spots like Halal Crispy Chicken and Burgers recently joined the scene.

But Onderko agrees with D’Aniello that it’s only the beginning for his beloved borough, or what he calls Manville’s “renaissance phase.”

The borough is launching a new electronic business directory that will be tied into the My Manville smartphone application launching this spring. Manville is also applying to the Designated Main Street program, which if accepted, will allow it to be eligible for grants to assist local businesses. South Main Street was designated a rehabilitation zone last year to help attract state aid.

A $7 million road project is underway to enhance pedestrian safety and reduce the number of accidents. When it’s completed, Main Street’s four lanes will be reduced to two lanes, and a center island for crossing and flashing beacons notifying drivers of pedestrians will be installed. The borough has also requested that the county lower the Main Street speed limit to 25 miles per hour.

“The project will add a sense of security for people and they will want to be here and enjoy our vast array of food,” Onderko said. “We’re a walkable community, and people can walk to Walmart, walk to a close-by restaurant, and walk to the movies or one of our parks. It’s a nice feature that draws people to want to live here.”

Mexican immigrant Rebecca Jimenez moved to Manville from Plainfield in 2016 to send her daughter, Brissa Rojas Jimenez, to a better school. That year, the family opened O’rale Mexican Restaurant after noticing their new hometown lacked Hispanic restaurants, especially Mexican.

Since then, that’s changed drastically, said Rojas Jimenez.

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“Manville has grown into a very open community,” she said. “There’s been such a boom here and so many different ethnicities of people have come to town, which has changed the food scene. The area has become more popular since we’re close to many resources, like the train station and Somerville.”

O’rale Mexican Restaurant, which focuses on Oaxacan cuisine and offers vegetarian and non-spicy options, now brings in customers of all ethnicities from as far as Montgomery and Warren, said Rojas Jimenez. She thinks that the borough’s food scene will only continue to grow in the coming years.

“Already, it’s changed so much in the few years we have been here,” she said. “The restaurants have heart and we have a lot of hidden gems that people don’t realize. There’s not a lot of attention on Manville but I really hope that changes. The town is perfect the way it is because we are a community that truly helps each other.”

To D’Aniello, there are no options but to help each other during tragic times of flooding. Since Manville Pizza turns into “an island” during floods due to its location, said D’Aniello, the restaurant never receives water damage and it’s never closed for weather issues.

“It maintains a sense of normalcy for the town and also for the first responders,” D’Aniello said. “We are the only thing that’s open. If I see bad news on the horizon, I’ll order extra supplies to last an extra week.”

During Hurricane Ida, Manville Pizza held a “pie it forward” program, where people could purchase pies as donations for flood victims.

These days, D’Aniello said that many of his customers are from both Manville and out of town, and pass other pizzerias on their way to Manville Pizza. But to them, it’s worth the trek.

He sees how the town itself has become worth the trek, too.

“Manville has definitely diversified, and I love it,” D’Aniello said. “There are times when I’m out of town and I’m in the mood to try something different, and then I find that at the end of the day, what I want is in Manville. We have these Hispanic restaurants where one is just better than the next.”

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He also thinks that perhaps in part, it’s the flooding that has been the gateway to allow authentic, international restaurants to flourish in the borough.

“Because of the flooding, Manville rents are cheap,” D’Aniello said. “That makes it very accessible for mom-and-pop operations to give it a go. Authentic restaurants that maybe couldn’t afford the rents in Somerville come here and fulfill their American dreams.”

Sam Algar, founder of Sahara Mediterranean restaurant, opened his second restaurant location in Manville in 2017 following the success of his first location in New Brunswick in 2003. Although Hurricane Ida was devastating for his restaurant – it was forced to close for eight months to rebuild – he said his business is now on the right track and is increasing 5% each year.

“People drive from Philadelphia to go to my New Brunswick restaurant, and now, people are driving an hour to go to my Manville restaurant,” Algar said. “Over time, this circle will get bigger and bigger. Manville has a lot of potential.”

Onderko, who’s a huge fan of Sahara’s pita and hummus, “vividly” remembers when he and Algar met in Manville and Algar told the mayor that he was thinking of opening a Sahara location in the borough.

“Two thousand cars a day come down our Main Street,” Onderko said. “I said, ‘Sam, if you have good food, the people will come.’ “

10 must-try Manville restaurants

Grub Hut, a friendly, colorful joint offering interesting twists on BBQ and Mexican fare, is a laid-back eatery full every night of the week with locals munching on items such as sassafras chicken, spare ribs, burritos, burgers, pulled pork and wings. If you’re bringing a buddy, go for the Big Time — with ribs, brisket, two pieces of chicken, two burritos, two tacos and a quesadilla — to try it all. Go: 307 N Main St.; 908-203-8003, grubhutbbq.com.

Halal Crispy Chicken and Burgers is a newer addition to the borough restaurant scene, cooking all Halal meats. Customers can choose from American classics like Philly cheesesteaks and hot wings to Indian specialties like lamb tikka and tawa fish, making the menu much more than the name suggests, served in casual surrounds. Go: 111 S Main St.; 908-300-8976, halalcrispychickenandburgers.com.

LJ’Z Boardwalk is Manville’s seasonal spot for ice cream located in an open-air barn-like structure. Here, customers can find a full menu of chilly desserts like milkshakes, sundaes, hard ice cream, soft-serve and more. Go: 304 S Main St.; 908-231-7474.

Manville Diner, a classic spot for homestyle grub since 1938, has been serving diner staples like country fried steak and eggs, pancakes and French toast, matzo ball soup, and other hearty cuisine for generations. Last year, it was sold to Hispanic owners and since then, it has also featured Hispanic specials. Go: 50 S Main St.; 908-685-0930.

Manville Pastry Shoppe has been a family-owned bakery since it opened in the borough more than a half-century ago offering fresh breads, cakes and pastries. Customers can find items such as filled and specialty doughnuts, buns and Danishes, muffins, crullers, pies and more. It also offers Eastern European pastries and custom cakes. Go: 335 N Main St.; 908-725-2288, manvillepastryshoppe.com.

Manville Pizza, a half-century old borough landmark, makes their dough fresh everyday and uses plum tomatoes imported from Italy. Try their Sicilian pie, made “the old fashioned way” in a three-day-long process, or the Skinny Vinny, their version of a classic bar pie. Customers also clamor for their wings, especially those with hot honey garlic sauce. Go: 31 S Main St.; 908-526-1194, manvillepizzaest1969.com.

Norkys Peruvian Restaurant, a Peruvian locale with an upscale ambiance that accompanies the restaurant’s Perth Amboy location, offers Peruvian staples like pollo a la brasa (rotisserie chicken), papa rellena (fried potato stuffed with shredded beef, egg and olives), and ceviche. Go: 244 S Main St.; 732-952-0909, norkysrestaurant.com.

O’rale Mexican Restaurant, an authentic Oaxacan restaurant with a colorful interior, is beloved for its tacos, burritos, enchiladas and steak entrees. Any dish at this family-owned spot can be served spicy or not spicy, and there are also vegetarian options. Go: 252 S Main St.; 908-707-2332, facebook.com/p/Orale-Mexican-Restaurant-100063752971778/.

The Polish Pickle Deli is a gourmet grocery store that’s worth the drive from Main Street. It’s owned by Polish immigrants who opened it 30 years ago, offering 20 types of pierogi, dozens of types of kielbasa, homemade sauerkraut, homemade pączki and babka, and more. It was formerly called B&L Market. Go: 221 N 10th Ave.; 908-253-0099, thepolishpickle.weebly.com.

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